At least two big events this week, one nationwide and one local. The first is Pust, or carnival, with the focus being Saturday. There are various parties around town where you can dress up and dance, while in the daytime things will start at 11:00 in Novi trg.
The second event is actually a festival, Gibanica, “a biennial selection of the best contemporary dance productions of local artists and [is] considered the most relevant contemporary dance platform in Slovenia”. If you like dance, then don’t miss this chance to see a varied selection of performances, discussions and more held at various locations around town, many of them with free admission. The event runs from Wednesday 27 February to Sunday 2 March, with the schedule – in English – here.
Finally, it’s also a school vacation, so don’t be alarmed if you see a lot of children out and about during class hours – they’re doing OK.
If you're not in town for the week of this guide (February 15 to March 3, 2019) then you can see all the editions here, and you can enhance your stay in the city and impress or annoy friends and companions by learning some obscure facts about the city here, and the Castle here.
As ever, clicking on the venue names in the list below should get you more details with regard to the time, price and location, as well as other events on at this place in whatever week you're here. Finally, if there's something you want to promote in a future edition of What's on in Ljubljana please get in touch with me at flanner(at)total-slovenia-news.com
- Cinemas and films
- Clubbing
- Live music
- Opera, theatre and dance
- Harm reduction and drug testing
- Things to do with children
- LGBT+ Ljubljana
- Ljubljana Castle
- Museums and galleries
- Other things to do in Ljubljana
- Daytrips
- Getting around
Cinemas and films
You can read about all the cinemas in town here, while a selection of what’s playing this week is below, and note that kid’s movies tend to be shown in dubbed versions, so do check before driving out to a multiplex and dropping off the young ones if they can't understand Slovene. Parents should also pay attention to Kinobalon, which is Kinodvor's regular weekend series of film screenings and events for children, from babies on up, with special parent/child events, "first time in a cinema" screenings, and babysitting. Learn more about it here, and see the current schedule here.
Kinodvor – The arts cinema not far from the train station is showing, among other features, among other features, Green Book, If Beale Street Could Talk, Ash Is Purest White, Beautiful Boy, Climax, and Faces Places.
Kinoteka – This revival cinema isn’t far from Kinodvor, at the train station end of Miklošičeva, is showing, among other things, the psychedelic classic Altered States, stone cold Soviet classic Battleship Potemkin, and dystopian classic Children of Men.
Kolosej - The multiplex out at BTC City Mall is playing all the big movies, which this week include Papillion, Taksi bluz, a dubbed version of How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World, Green Book, Vice, The Upside, Ralph Breaks the Internet: Wreck-It Ralph 2 (dubbed), The Grinch, A Star is Born, Bohemian Rhapsody, Escape Room, Lego Film 2, Cold Pursuit, Alita: Battle Angel (2D and 3D), Qu'est-ce qu'on a encore fait au bon Dieu?, Happy Death Day 2U, Beautiful Boy, Dumplin', and Instant Family. New this week are Mia et le lion blanc and a dubbed version of Liliane Susewind.
Komuna – The cinema in a basement behind Nama department store is showing Green Book, Bohemian Rhapsody, a dubbed version of How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World, and The Favourite.
Clubbing
Compared to some European capitals it can seem that nightlife in Ljubljana ends rather early, especially along the river, but there are still bars that stay open late and clubs were you can dance until dawn, and perhaps the best place to stumble across something interesting is the legendary Metelkova. Be aware it's a grungy kind of place and not for all tastes, but also that there's considerable variety to found within the various clubs there, from death metal to electropop, gay cabaret to art noise. You can read "the rules" of the place here. And if you're curious about how the place started then read our story, and look at some pictures, about last year's 25th anniversary.
Božidar -
Saturday you can celebrate Pust by putting on your fancy pants and getting down to Raphaël Top-Secret (FR).
Channel Zero – Friday, March 1, you can greet the third month with Traxman (Tekk Dj'z), with able support from Bakto, SunnySun, and Terranigma.
Gala Hala – Friday 23:00 to 06:00 Saturday Wave Riders! returns, giving you the opportunity to wear sunglasses at night and enjoy the sounds of electroclash, leftfield house and techno, with the beats strung together by DJs Torulsson and Kobayashii and VJ Maii providing the visuals. Saturday there’s Zeleno sonce specialka: Pustna slovenska popevka, which will be Slovenian music played by Udo Brenner and Funkenstein.
Klub Cirkus – Tuesday there’s an all-nighter with a focus on YugoRock, as hosted by the Faculty of Economics. Wednesday it’s TRAPped in the city, with DJs Alpha Z and Young Sanci bringing you the all the Trap, RnB, and hip hop you can handle between the hours of 22:00 and 05:00. I guess there’s some tests coming up, because Thursday the night is Millennium AFTER EXAMS Edition, another student party, which promises retro music from the ‘00s. Friday, March 1, it’s time to dress with care and deal with any lingering dandruff, as its BLACK MOON – UV Gathering, with the soundtrack to the visual thrills being a steady diet of dance, future house, EDM, house, RnB, hip hop, and trap until dawn. A packed week at the more commercial end of clubland then comes to a shaking climax with the Legendarna Cirkuška Pustna Sobota, a celebration of Pust with dance music being played by Matthew Z and DJ Dey. Pust is like the Slovene Halloween, so maybe put a costume on and win a prize – although as the promo says “Being dead drunk is never considered an original mask”, so play nice and take of your friends.
Klub K4 – The klub for kool kids that’s just entered its fourth decade, and thus now open to the kids of the original kids, if not their grandkids, has two parties this week if you want to feel the noise. On Friday it’s K4 x New Blood, with house and techno being played by new DJs who learned at K4 workshops, with the names to remember being PGB, Alex Agara, Goryk and Chiro. Saturday K4 also gets in on the Pust action, with Pustni RAVE, presenting acid, techno, break, disco, and house from Dulash, Softskinson Commercial Break, Borka and Le Berg.
Klub Gromka – Saturday, 22:00 to 04:00, there’s a Pust event with few details other than “On the carnival Saturday, you are given a bunch of super women. With its superlative power, the sounds of gold and silver erected from the speakers will protect you against the attack of evil forces and make sure you dance all night long!”
Orto Bar – Friday, March 1, there’s a night called The Scene '80s and '90s Electric Boogie, which seems fairly clear with regard to what’s on offer, with the sounds lined up by Lab Doctors - Old Scool Suits. Devious & Mikel Wonic. It’s same same but different on Saturday, with Orto Maškare! The Dancing Queen (70s, 80s, 90s Pop, Dance hits). This will be a Pust party.
Live music
Božidar – Friday, March 1, there’s the chance to see Dollkraut Band (NL) in action, with a tasty taster below.
Kino Šiška – Tuesday evening Neneh Cherry will be in town presenting her new album new album Broken Politics, recorded with Kieran Hebden (Four Tet). On Wednesday “Belgian ensemble Echo Collective will play their take on the famed album Amnesiac by Radiohead. The neoclassical instrumental arrangements of well-known songs such as “Pyramid Song” and “I Might Be Wrong” have astounded critics, who have declared the album a “glorious homage” to the original”.
Klub Gromka – Saturday, 22:00 to 04:00, there’s a Pust event with few details other than “On the carnival Saturday, you are given a bunch of super women. With its superlative power, the sounds of gold and silver erected from the speakers will protect you against the attack of evil forces and make sure you dance all night long!”
Ljubljana Castle – Friday night is jazz night, with the music sometimes crossing over into other genres, This week it’s Café Mezclado.
Orto Bar – This guitar-friendly venue has Legendarni C4 on Thursday, starting 21:30. Friday it’s post-rock with Shadow Universe and Monstrumental, while on Saturday there’s a heavy sludge punk bill with Weedwolf, Goragorja, and Chains, with both events being Riffeater productions. See the headline acts from the last two below, while there seems to be nothing from Legendarni C4 online.
Opera, theatre and dance
Cankerjev dom – The largest arts centre in the country is one of the key venues for the Gibanica biennial of contemporary dance, as noted in the introduction. You can see the centre’s programme of dance events here. On March 2nd you can see Ballet National De Marseille & Ick Amsterdam: Appearance / Disappearance, as promoted below.
Gledališče IGLU - IGLU TheatreSaturday night this group is usually putting on an English improv show somewhere in town, but it’s generally promoted after this is written, so check the Facebook before putting on your shoes.
Klub Gromka – One our favourite groups of performers, Tatovi podob (Image Snatchers), will be here on Thursday, 21:30, with their burlesque show Matilda in njene žemljice, aka Matilda and Her Buns. Expect music, dance, comedy and nudity.
Mini Teater Ljubljana – The English schedule of varied performances for the month is here.
SNG Opera and BalletVerdi’s Rigoletti will be staged here on Saturday, March 2.
Pocket Teater Studio – It’s a busy week at perhaps the smallest dedicated venue in town, not far from Križanke, a place where you can feel the air move from the performers. On Tuesday and Wednesday, 20:00 there’s Človek, ki je prodal svet - “Viewing the performance is possible only with a reservation at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or at the telephone number 070 977 937, while the price is 10 €.” Friday there’s 'Strings to the past', a special dance and music program of baroque music and flamenco – Note that the number of seats is very limited, and thus you should make a reservation via This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. or 070 325 522. The price of ticket is 20€ or 15€ for students, and includes wine throughout the evening.
Harm reduction and drug testing
Drogart is an organization that aims to minimise harm on the party scene, and offers drug-testing services and reports on their webpage. It’s in Slovene, but you can Google translate it or work things out yourself, and our story on the group is here. You can find the latest warnings on fake drugs and high strength pills and powders (in Slovene) here. However, be aware that all the usual drugs are illegal in Slovenia. (CBD isn't thought, and our favourite store is on Trubarjeva, as noted here)
Things to do with children
You can find our Top 12 list of things to do with kids in Ljubljana here. If want to read more about the philosophy behind the wonderful House of Experiments look here, while our trip to the Museum of Illusions is documented here, and there’s always riverside walks, pizza and ice cream. With regard to the latter, take a look at our guide to six places that serve good ice cream in winter.
Mini Teater Ljubljana – The season sees a lot of puppet performances for children, in Slovene, at this theatre not far from Križanke. The English schedule for the month is here.
Ljubljana Puppet Theatre - The puppet theatre near the Central Market and next to the Castle funicular has a full programme or shows, for children and adults, with the schedule here.
LGBT+ Ljubljana
If you want to learn more about Ljubljana Pride, then take a look at our interview with its president here. If you're looking for more general links on "gay Slovenia", including a history of the scene and various projects, then you can find that here, while our stories about the community can be found here.
Klub MonokelThis lesbian bar in Metelkova is open every Friday, and this week there’s a concert by Croon and support from DJ Annarch.
Klub Tiffany – And the gay bar next door is also open on Fridays, while every Monday until June 2019 there's tango at 18:00. Thursday, 19:00 to 22:00, there’s Roza Škis – večer taroka in družabnih iger, which will be an evening of card, board and table top games. Friday, 20:30 to 21:45, there’s A mi daš cifro?, which will be an evening of improv.
Pritličje – This seems to be the only "always open" LGBT-friendly cafe / bar / events space in town, and perhaps the country, so it's a good thing it's such a good one, open from morning to night, and with fliers and posters letting you know what's happening outside the narrow confines of, say, a general interest online what's on... guide.
Screenshot from Google Maps, showing the location of the Castle vineyard
Ljubljana Castle
The city’s main attraction is said to be the top tourist draw in the country overall, and to my mind it earns a spot near the top just for the history and views. But beyond that the current owners, the City of Ljubljana, have laid out a varied, interesting and enjoyable programme of events, one that rewards regular revisits.
I try and get up there every Saturday morning to clear my head and move my feet on the trails, and never tire of that end of the hill. At the other end, where the Castle sits, there’s a lot more than fresh air on offer. There are guided tours, restaurants, a café, Castle museum, puppet museum, a Watchtower you can climb to the highest point in the city, art shows, dances, live music, movies under the stars, festival days and more – enough to reward multiple trips up the hill through the year. All of these activities and events can be found on the Castle website, while on TSN you can see “25 things to know about Ljubljana Castle” here, and “Ten Ways to Enjoy Ljubljana Castle” here.
Museums & Galleries
Most public galleries and museums are closed on Mondays, although not the National Museum, and - as noted at the start
Plečnik's desk. Photo: JL Flanner
Plečnik’s House is worth a visit if you want to learn more about the architect who gave Ljubljana much of its character. Read about our guided tour here.
Balassi Institute – The Hungarian culture centre has an exhibition entitled “Encounters in Visual Art” introduces works of selected visual artists, painters and sculptors, who define today's art scene in Hungary and Slovenia, as promoted with the image below. Free to enter, this venue is next to a Spar and Hofer, and not far from Dragon Bridge, and always has something interesting going on. Learn more here.
Cankerjev dom – On until February 28 is the exhibition Ivan Cankar and Europe, Between Shakespeare and Kafka, while until March 10 there’s a photographic show on the Ljubljanica, with images of the city’s river captured by Bojan Velikonja. Showing until the end of March is a selection of specimens from The Newspaper Museum.
City Museum – The Museum in French Revolution Square also has an exhibition on the writer Ivan Cankar that’s on until the end of February 2019, with pictures, books and manuscripts, all presented in Slovene and English. It also has a very interesting permanent exhibition on the history of Ljubljana, from prehistoric times to the present day, with many artefacts, models and so on that bring the story alive.You can read about my visit here. Until March 2019 there's a show highlighting the work Elza Kastl Obereigner (1884-1973), a pioneer Slovenian sculptress, with an example of her work shown below.
Photo: M Paternoster
The Faces of Ljubljana in the City Museum. Photo: JL Flanner
City Gallery - Not far from the Robba Fountain and running until March 24 is a show presenting drawings by Iztok Sitar, the original pages that were used to make his graphic novels over the last three decades. Rather adult in nature – think Robert Crumb in terms of sex, drugs and religion, in places – it’s free to enter and has much to enjoy. One of the pictures I took on my visit is below.
Photo: JL Flanner
Galerija Jakopič – On until March 3 is Over My Eyes (Na moje oči), an exhibition of photographs from Iraq taken by Iraqi photographers.
International Centre of Graphic Arts – Running from Friday until March 3 2019 there will be a show of posters from Milton Glaser, while paintings, drawings, prints and from Nathalie Du Pasquier in a show called Fair Game. The latter is being promoted with the following image.
MAO – The Museum of Architecture and Design has much of what you'd expect, and until March 25, 2019, has a show on Ljubljana and it's relation with water. Until February 24 visitors can enjoy Toasted Furniture, which presents some experiments with the reuse of plastic waste, and until February 28 there's a show on Oskar Kogoj and his chairs.
Moderna galerija – The main branch of this gallery, to be found near the entrance to Tivoli Park, has a good collection of modern art, as well a nice café in the basement. Running until March 31 is a major show on young Slovenian painters, Time Without Innocence – Recent Painting in Slovenia, where you’ll see works like the following. You can read about my visit here (I loved it).
Iva Tratnik, Mating Season Totalitarianism, 2014, oil on canvas, 210 x 194 cm
Arjan Pregl, from the Carnival series, oil on canvas (6 paintings 120 x 100 cm; 3 paintings 80 x 60 cm), 2018
National Gallery – The country’s main gallery has “the best” of what’s on offer from the Middle Ages to non-contemporary modern visual arts, and is in a great location for exploring other areas, just by Tivoli Park and opposite the main branch of the Moderna galerija. You can read about our visit to the room containing sacred art from the Middle Ages here.
JL Flanner
The real Robba Fountain can be found in the entrance to the National Gallery - the one you see in the Old Town is a genuine fake, as seen below and reported here.
Photo: JL Flanner
National Museum of Slovenia – There’s plenty to see in the permanent collection here, from Roman times, Egypt and more. Meanwhile, the museum's Metelkova branch, located between one branch of the Moderna galerija and the Ethnographic Museum has some rooms on Church art, furniture and weapons, with the latter including more guns than you'll see anywhere else in town, and quite a thrill if coming from a nation where such objects are not household items.
Natural History Museum – On until the end of June 2019 is Our Little Big Sea, which takes a look at the oceans.
Slovene Ethnographic Museum – The museum currently has a temporary show on Bees and Beekeeping, on until June 16 2019, as well two permanent exhibitions. One of these is called Between Nature and Culture, and has a great collection of objects from Slovenia and around the world, well worth the trip up to the third floor to see it (as recounted here). This place is located near the newer branch of the Moderna galerija and Metelkova.
Union is "the Ljubljana beer", but now both it and Laško are owned by Heineken. There are many local brews on offer around town, though, if you want to explore IPAs, stouts, wheatbeers, sours and so on Photo: JL Flanner
Union Experience – The Ljubljana-based brewer has a museum showing the history of the company, with the ticket also including access to part of the factory and a few samples of the product. You can read about our visit here.
It's not a formal museum, but if you're interested in "Yugo-stalgia" then you'll enjoy a trip to Verba, a small, privately run space that's crammed with objects and pop culture items from the era, and is conveniently located at the start of one of the short walks to the castle. It's also a great place to take pictures, if you leave a donation, and you can read more about it here.
Verba. Photo: JL Flanner
Alternative Ljubljana isn't a museum or gallery, as such, but instead turns the city streets into a museum and gallery. Learn more about their tours of street art, history and LGBT Ljubljana here.
Photo: JL Flanner
Other things to do in Ljubljana
If you'd like to spend an evening painting with others, then take a look at Design with Wine, which organises painting parties on Trubarjeva cesta,
If you want to see some antiques, then check out the wonderful Antika Carniola, as discussed here. The man behind it, Jaka Prijatelj, has a fine eye for life on this street, as you can see on his Facebook account.
Photo: JL Flanner
If you’re in town and want to go jogging or walking in nature, why not take another look at the Castle, with a brief guide to the trails here. If you want something bigger, head to Tivoli Park.
And if you're bored with the Old Town, why not take a walk, cycle or boat ride to nearby Špica and enjoy the riverside life. Learn more about that here.
visitljubjana.si
maxpixel.net, public domain
Want to stretch and breath? Then check out our list of drop-in yoga classes for tourists, visitors and the uncommitted. If you're heading to the coast, check out our interview with a yoga teacher who offers breakfast sessions there, while if you're staying in town (or nearby) and want to try some "family yoga" then you can learn more about that here and maybe get your kids to calm down a moment or two.
There are some golf courses near Ljubljana, but even ones further away are not far, as seen in our list of all the golf courses in Slovenia. Note that these close when the snow starts, if it ever does this year, in which case you might be interested in what's new at Slovenia's ski resorts for 2019, as reported here.
Photo: maxpixel.net, public domain
Daytrips
Most of Slovenia is only a few hours from Ljubljana, and you can easily visit Lake Bled, Lipica Stud Farm, Postojna Cave, Predjama Castle, the coast and other locations, while if you'd like to take a photo of from that bench in Bled, then you can learn how to get there here. If you’re looking for something more ambitious, then check out our recent guide to the 17 members of the Association of Historical Towns of Slovenia
Photo: Google Image Search
Getting around
If you want to get a Ljubljana Tourist Card, which gives you travel on the city buses and entry to a lot of attractions, then you can read more about that here, and if you want to use the bike share system, as useful for visitors as it is for residents, then you can learn more by clicking this. Visitors with reduced mobility will be pleased to find that downtown Ljubljana is generally rated as good with regard to accessibility, and that there’s a free, city-sponsored app called Ljubljana by Wheelchair highlighting cafés, attractions and so on with ramps, disabled bathrooms and Eurokey facilities, which you can read about and download here. Manual wheelchair users can also borrow, for free, an attachment that will motorise their equipment, as reported here.
Screenshot from a Twitter video
If you’re driving into town and don’t know where to part, our guide to how to park in Ljubljana is here.
There aren't many places to eat after midnight, and most of them are by the train station, as reported here.
Want / need cigarettes but the stores have closed? Here's an incomplete list of bars downtown that will satisfy your craving for the demon weed. While if you’re having trouble with the ATMs then here’s a guide to the Slovene you’ll see on screen. If you get a hangover then find out where to get paracetamol (and prescription drugs) in Ljubljana here, while details on emergency birth control can be found here.
Ljubljana is a small and relatively safe city, but if need to contact the police then there’s a special number for foreigners, and that’s 113.
